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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.